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目前分類:【英格蘭】莎翁故居 Stratford-upon-Avon (19)

瀏覽方式: 標題列表 簡短摘要

Before perusing this article, it is recommended that this article be read first.

閱讀此文前,建議先看『讓雕像告訴你莎士比亞名劇的故事』。

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Due to his age, the King plans to divide his land to his three daughters, but first, he wants to know how much they love him.  The eldest and second eldest daughters flatters their father with words ever-so sweet.  When the time comes for the youngest to show how much she loves him, she has nothing to say.  The stubborn King thus divides his land equally between the first two daughters.  The youngest has no land, and was exiled. 

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Before perusing this article, it is recommended that this article be read first.

閱讀此文前,建議先看『讓雕像告訴你莎士比亞名劇的故事』。

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Hermia and Lysandar are deeply in love.  However, Hermia’s father decides to marry her to Demetrius, who had supposedly already given his vows to Helena.  Due to Athenian law, to disobey a father’s marital arrangement could lead to death, Hermia and Lysander decides to elope for love and to save Hermia’s life.  In order to put Helena’s mind at ease, the couple confides their eloping plan to her, but she, in turn, tells Demetrius of their plan.  

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Before perusing this article, it is recommended that this article be read first.

閱讀此文前,建議先看『讓雕像告訴你莎士比亞名劇的故事』。 

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This is probably one of Shakespeare’s darkest tragedies.

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Before perusing this article, it is recommended that this article be read first.

閱讀此文前,建議先看『讓雕像告訴你莎士比亞名劇的故事』。 

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This is a story about a prince’s vengeance.  

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Before perusing this article, it is recommended that this article be read first.

閱讀此文前,建議先看『讓雕像告訴你莎士比亞名劇的故事』。

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Originally, this was supposed to be the last of the Shakespeare's Hometown series.  However, I could not think of an easier way to present all the photos AND all the words that must go along with them within one article.  After thinking about this for a few days, I've decided that it would be impossible to do this within a single article.  Especially after one whole year of torment, there was no way I could recount any of Shakespeare's works within one or two sentences.  However, I did want to use this opportunity to introduce, in the easiest way possible, his works to all my readers.  That is why this is nothing close to 'the last' of this series.

原本,這篇文章應該是【莎翁故鄉】系列的最終回。不過這幾天一直在想,要怎麼樣將圖多文也多的文章『輕鬆』的呈現。想了好幾天,我得到的結論是:不可能。圖片多,或許看得輕鬆。但經過了一整年的折磨,要我三言兩語就交代整齣莎劇的劇情是不可能的事。但又希望藉此機會與大家以最簡單的方式了解莎劇劇情。只好又把他拆為好幾篇比較小篇的文章。

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This was the last four of the five Shakespeare's Houses that we visited.  Because of time and energy, we had to give up on the last and furthest one - Mary Arden's Farm.  However, as I had repeatedly stated, you get enough worth of the five-house ticket by going to more than two houses already.  Nash's House, does and doesn't have any direct relation to Shakespeare, depending on how you look at it.  The house belonged to Thomas Nash, first husband of Shakespeare's granddaughter, Elizabeth Barnard.  The most significant fact is that the space next to it, now called 'New Place' once stood the house where Shakespeare resided after retirement, and it was also the place in which he died.  The house had long been demolished, and the grounds had been transformed into a garden.  I personally think that the essence of the whole place lies in the back garden.  After your tour of the house, come out through the side door into the garden.  Since the back garden contains the so-called 'essence' of the whole place, it deserves its own separate article.  Let's take a short look at the house itself, and the garden by it.

Nash's House正是我們參觀的莎士比亞五間屋子裡其中四間的最後一站。因為時間以及體力的關係,我們捨棄距離最遙遠的Mary Arden's Farm。不過正如我ㄧ再強調,只要看到兩間以上,套票的價錢就已經比單獨一間還要划算了。其實Nash's House,與莎士比亞算有關,也算沒關係。屋主Thomas Nash是莎士比亞孫女Elizabeth Barnard的第一位丈夫。而這裡最主要的重點,其實是旁邊所謂的New Place。此地曾經是莎士比亞退休後以及往生前所居住的房子所在地。不過該房子早已經被拆了。因此這個地方就被改造成公園。Nash's House參觀完之後,可從旁邊的小門通到花園。天仙認為,旁邊的花園雖然美,但後花園更是精華。不過因為是精華,所以值得單獨一篇介紹。此篇文章就先來瞧瞧Nash's House以及New Place花園的景色吧。

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If you come to Stratford-upon-Avon, this place is almost as unavoidable as a lot of the other places in this town.  The statues in the following pictures are located in Bancroft Gardens, by the river Avon.  Collectively, they are called the Gower Memorial.  These life-size statues of Shakespearean characters come from Hamlet, Henry IV, Henry V, and Macbeth.  Each statue represents a different theme of Shakespearean plays.

來到Stratford-upon-Avon,很難不去注意到下列這些照片中的莎劇雕像。這些位於Avon河邊的Bancroft Gardens中的雕像,集體稱為Gower Memorial。特色就是有四座真實比例的莎翁劇中的人物雕像。這四座雕像分別出自於:哈姆雷特、亨利四世、亨利五世以及馬克白。而每一座雕像象徵的意義也不同。

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I've been saying that the weather had not affected our enjoyment of this Shakespearean enlightening trip.  I know that sunny days make Stratford even more glorious, and it would definitely be more convenient to walk around, but even under the grey clouds and sprinkly rain, it emits a unique and unforgettable scene.  Unless there is a tempest, there is no reason why the 'weather' should spoil your trip to Stratford-upon-Avon!

我一再強調,陰天雨天,完全沒有影響到我們享受這趟莎翁知性知旅的閒情逸致。雖然陽光照耀的Stratford,比起雨中行走要方便許多,但是陰天雨天的Stratford, 還是散發出自己獨特的氣氛。漫步在Avon河畔,除非是狂風暴雨,否則無論是晴天、雨天,相信你都可以照樣很享受當下的Stratford-upon-Avon。

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Generally speaking, a lot of people probably don't know much about Hall's Croft.  Neither did we, and we were Shakespearean academics... This, is actually the house of Shakespeare's daughter, Susanna, and her husband John Hall. It contains a small collection of 16th and 17th century paintings and furniture.  Because John was a doctor, the house also exhibits a wide range of medical equipments used in those days.

別說一般人了,就連專攻莎士比亞領域的我們,其實對這間屋子也很陌生。事實上,他原是屬於莎士比亞女兒Susanna和女婿John Hall所有。這間屋子的展示品,包含了十六以及十七世紀的藝術品以及傢具。不過比較特別一點的,應該算是當時身為醫生的John Hall所會用上的一些醫療工具。

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On this rainy August afternoon, we did not need extravagant furnishing, nor elegant teaware, to relief our exhausted bodies.  All we needed, was a simple, plain cup filled with tea, and a bottle of orange juice.  Because compared to our tired bodies, our hearts were were more than satisfied.

八月的某日下雨天,我們不需要華麗的裝潢也不需要高貴的茶具。簡簡單單的白色茶杯以及茶盤,和一瓶柳橙汁,就足以滿足我們疲倦的身體。但是身體上的疲憊,比起心理上的滿足,簡直微不足道。

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The first place to visit on our second day itinerary, was Anne Hathaway's Cottage.  We departed after we enjoyed a lovely breakfast prepared by Pascal.  From the maps and Pascal's word, it would take about 5-6 minutes to walk from the B&B to our destination.  If you like walking while you travel, you would probably understand, that when you have no idea where the destination is, even a few minutes walk would seem like a couple of hours.

We had been very lucky on our frist day.  There was barely any rain.  This second day was a little different, though.  There were two reasons that made the walk seem extra long: 1. we had all our belongings with us, as I came up with this brilliant idea in order to save us a trip back to the B&B before boarding the train back; 2. it had started to rain since we got up.  Although Stratford-upon-Avon in the rain seemed just as pleasant and enjoyable, it did affect one's journey, especially when there were hardly any shelter along the way.

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莎士比亞出生地
Shakespeare's Birthplace

This is the birthplace of the poet of all times.  My friend and I came here on the first day to get our five-house tickets.  Initially, I thought it would be better to save it until the next day, so we would have more time to see the place in detail.  However, once we got our tickets, the people that worked there ushered us in, and assured us that we had enough time until it closed.  So, in we went.

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Holy Trinity Church

聖三一教堂又被大眾稱之為莎士比亞的教堂,是莎士比亞出生後受洗以及逝世後的埋葬地。就因為這個很簡單的原因,造成了這座教堂成為了來Stratford不可不去的景點之一。

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除了劇場表演知名度之外,RSC所出版的莎士比亞全集也是在文學界裡赫赫有名的版本。在台灣RSC版本的莎士比亞全集非常少見。比較常見到的版本為The Riverside Shakespeare,或是The Oxford Shakespeare。不同版本之間的差距可大也可小。非三言兩語既能解釋的清楚。若是買來珍藏,其實RSC的珍藏版屬最有質感的版本。

再來看看RSC還賣了些什麼周邊商品。

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因擴展工程暫時關閉的The Swan Theatre。
The Swan Theatre, undergoing redevelopment.

皇家莎士比亞劇團[RSC]是英國最知名的劇團之一。該劇團在1879年四月二十三日於莎士比亞紀念劇場呈現了他們的第一場莎士比亞劇:『無事生非』。目 前RSC所經營共四間劇場:The Courtyard、The Swan、Royal Shakespeare和The Other Place。

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書蟲
Bookworm

高中第一次接觸莎士比亞,應該與許多接觸英/美式教育的高中學生一樣,不是『凱薩大帝』、就是『羅密歐與朱麗葉』。當年遇到我人生中第三位恩師 - Margaret Wallace,讓我了解了文學這個領域,更讓我深深的愛上英國文學。不過對於當時的我來說,親自造訪Stratford,簡直就遙不可及。沒想到過了好幾年後,我真的親自來到這裡,見識到莎士比亞的故鄉。

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這是我去曼城的Visitor Centre看到一本專門介紹Stratford-upon-Avon的旅遊雜誌中所看到的B&B。雜誌中只有大概的價格,設備,以及地址。實際的圖片是到了他們的網站上才看到的。其實當初會選擇這家的原因,是因為在安排過程中以電話詢問其他兩間B&B卻只聽到已無空房的消息。後來到這個網站上看到可以直接在網路上訂房,也可以在網路上看到哪幾天還有幾間空房,就直接以上面還有空房的日期來決定我們改期的日子。所以原本決定在七月二十四日出發,才會因此延後到八月三日。

之前有說過,安排這次行程的確花了不少時間。不過,我覺得這一切都很值得。主要的原因,是因為這間B&B的老闆 - Pascal,實在是太盡責了。我們先來瞧瞧房間內部,再來細談這位Pascal到底有多盡責。

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夢寐以求的莎翁故鄉Stratford-upon-Avon終於可如願實現了。計畫這趟朝聖行程簡直是一波三折。起初我是打算一個人獨行。但在看到 B&B價目之後覺得一個人獨行實在太不划算了。因此開始找朋友同行。起初,第一位找的朋友跟我說若是七月底以後她都沒問題。但偏偏我原本是想計畫在七月結束前就完成此行程。原本想放棄找夥伴的念頭,因為這趟旅程對我來說無比的重要。但後來跟同學們提起後,居然有兩位同學說有意願想一起去。接下來我們約了個時間到,上網查火車票以及住宿價格。火車票是小case。重點是我們打算住的B&B,在原定的那天已經客滿。往後推一個星期,我看到八月初還有空的三人房,為了節省經費,才決定延期。而其中一位同學還提議說她可以開車帶我們去。油錢分攤,算起來比火車票便宜許多。

不料,就在一切都決定好以後,那位提議要開車的同學竟然說她的預算估計錯誤。所以可能沒辦法去。她說,看我們要不要先找人看可否跟我們同行。這樣除了買火車票之外,住宿方面也不用做任何更改。由於改到了八月,我救回想到之前那位朋友。但好巧不巧,她那天正好也有事情無法改期。後來那位要開車的同學只好自我犧牲,但讓我跟另外一位同學還是可以依照原本的計畫出發。

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