il Giardino Romantico

終於來到要離開清邁的這一天了！心中真是說不出有多麼不捨。我想老公（當時的未婚夫）應該也是如此吧！

不過因為距離班機的時間還早，所以早上就衝來完成最後一個行程。之前提過，吃過一次慶城街海南雞飯就忘不了那個味道。原因就是因為它的味道真的很接近天仙從小吃到大的這間海南雞飯！

來清邁不吃泰國菜跑來吃雲南菜是個什麼樣的狀況？

其實會想來這間也是因為我們從小吃到大。這次帶著（當時）未婚夫來，當然也是想要趁機讓他了解天仙在泰國的那段時間，玩什麼、吃什麼。所以從小吃到大的餐廳當然要來！只是距離天仙上次來也好幾年了！因此就連這間餐廳也有好多變化。

早上看完表演，騎完大象跟牛車之後，緊接著就是午餐時間了。吃完午餐還有竹筏趣。所以說，要安排來這裡玩的話，真的要空出一整個白天下來呢！

好啦！先來看看大家最期待的午餐吧！

快來跟著天仙騎大象吧！！

Let's hop on and start our elephant ride!

來到泰國大家一定不陌生的行程之一就是騎大象了！

雖然定居清邁時，去過不少次不同的象園，不過這次在地人推薦了一個新的地方。對天仙來說，也算是新鮮。

วัดพระธาตุดอยสุเทพ Wat Phra That 位於 Suthep山上。我想是個觀光客都很熟悉的景點。這次的懷舊之旅，因為帶著從來沒來過清邁的老公（當時還是未婚夫），所以把這裡也規劃了進行程中。

Wat Phra That is located on Suthep Mountain. (Doi being 'mountain' in Thai). This is a rather popular site of attraction, so I'm sure many would be familiar with the place. As my husband (fiance at the time) had never been to Chiang Mai before, I planned this into our itinerary. 

See previous article 上篇：【清邁】遊記 - 康托克帝王餐宴 Khantoke (ขันโตก) Dinner at Chiang Mai Old Cultural Center  Part I



康托克帝王餐原是蘭那王朝宮廷用餐的形式。用著一種小圓桌擺著佳餚，用餐順便觀賞舞蹈。這是古代人拿來招待賓客的方式。今日成為觀光客眼中最不可錯過的清邁特色之一。

如果說，要列一個來清邁一定要做的事的清單，那這個蘭那風康托克帝王餐加上傳統舞蹈表演秀，肯定是被列入前十名的。前一陣子在亂搜尋的時候，看到有網友分享說「邊吃飯邊表演的秀絕對不要去看」。因為人家給你東西吃就是要你分心。你分心了自然也就不會太注意表演。不過這間可不一樣。七點入場，先將你餵飽，之後除了點心與飲料之外，正餐就會收走，不讓你在吃了！你也得專心看表演！

康托克帝王餐原是蘭那王朝宮廷用餐的形式。用著一種小圓桌擺著佳餚，用餐順便觀賞舞蹈。這是古代人拿來招待賓客的方式。今日成為觀光客眼中最不可錯過的清邁特色之一。

上次文中提到的泰國傳統藝術照[點入看舊文]就位於曾幾何時清邁最熱鬧的夜市裏頭。不過就在第一天晚上跟友人吃飯時，她就提醒我，現在的Night Bazaar已經不比從前了！東西不多，還是一樣貴，人群也逐漸變少了。現在只能拿來騙騙不知情的旅客。而現在正夯的，則是位於Thapae城門周圍的Walking Street。朋友再三叮囑我一定要去！把我們載回飯店的一路上說了一共有十次之多吧！既然這麼堅持，我們當然是要來看看！

The last Chiang Mai article I posted was about the photo shoot in traditional Thai clothing [click to see]. The place was located within the 'night bazaar'. Upon dinner on the night of our first arrival, my friend told me that we might as well skip the night bazaar. There were not as many vendors, and the stuff sold there were still just as expensive (rip off). The place to go now, was the Walking Street by the Thapae Gate of the moat. During the drive back to the hotel, my friend must've said ten times that we simply must go there! So, there was absolutely no reason why we should skip this so-called 'Walking Street'. 

其實從原本的Night Bazaar走過來路途並不遠。天仙從小在這習慣被車子載，而且都有人帶路自己不用記路。好在天仙的方向感還算不錯！憑著記憶帶著當時還是未婚夫的老公走了過來，一看才知道：不得了了！真的熱鬧極了！

  
Fish and Chips

其實照完傳統藝術照之後，我們首先要做的就是找小七，然後看看有沒有賣卸妝的。不過此時我的八度已經很餓了，所幸沒卸妝就跑來人家餐廳嚇人！呼～ 

Galae湖畔餐廳跟之前介紹過的Ban Yen[點我看舊文]一樣，是個越夜越有氣氛的戶外餐廳。唯一的差別是，這裡好像是沒有live band。（印象中好像沒有）不過勝出Ban Yen的一點就是這間餐廳就位在湖畔！

Galae Restauarant is similar to  Ban Yen [see old post] in a few ways. The majority of the seats are outdoors, and the atmosphere gets even better later into the night. However, from what I remember, I don't think there is a live band here. Galae is located by a lake, which is also different from Ban Yen. 

覺得這些照片很有趣嗎？看起來是不是很有質感？到了清邁，除了好吃還有好玩的！其實天仙高中畢業前就有來這裡拍過傳統藝術照。我們一直以為價錢很高不想拍。不過那年剛好心血來潮去問了價錢才知道一點都不貴。事隔多年後，帶著當時還是未婚夫去清邁玩，就也想要趁機再重新拍一組起來留著作紀念。

這間位於多年前很熱鬧的night bazaar（夜市）。原本也在我們的shopping行程中。不過聽友人提起才知道原來這麼多年來，這裡也逐漸落寞了。除了還可以騙騙不熟清邁的觀光客之外，幾乎是沒什麼人會想要來逛了。不過天仙此行是有任務的，所以還是得來。

來到清邁不可不吃的就是這道出了泰北以後就很難吃到道地口味的咖哩麵（khao soi ข้าวซอย）！Khao soi（又稱泰北金麵）真的是一道泰北的特色菜。有朋友曾經告訴我，他在曼谷吃過，但味道跟清邁的完全不一樣。而這道khao soi也是你在台灣不可能吃的到的泰北菜。

Khao soi is something that you will not find once you leave Northern Thailand. It is a signature dish of Northern Thailand. A friend once told me that he had tried khao soi in Bangkok, and it did not taste the same at all. This is also a dish that you will not find in any of the Thai restaurants in the streets of Taipei!

說到對清邁的童年回憶，就不得不提這間Boat Bakery的早餐了！一份美式早餐（含果汁、吐司、火腿、培根、兩顆蛋以及咖啡）也是以前周末常來享用的早點。這裡就在清邁大學大門口附近。因為住的地方離這裡很近，所以周末就常來吃。老爸老媽有時候早上散步完也會先在這裡享用早餐後才回家。家裡有人生日，這間附設的蛋糕店，也是我們常光顧的店。事隔多年，我朋友說已經不如以往好吃了。但天仙還是想要來回味一下。無論好不好吃，終究是個回憶。

I can't think back about life in Chiang Mai without thinking about Boat Bakery. We used to come here during weekends and enjoy their 'American Breakfast'. The bakery is located right by the main gate of Chiang Mai University, which was close to where we lived. Sometimes my parents would come here after their morning walks, and have breakfast before coming home. When it was someone's birthday, we'd buy birthday cakes from the bakery as well. After all these years, my friend told me that it's not as good as before. I didn't care, though. I still wanted to come... for old time's sake.

為了彌補上次的超級不負責任食記，天仙這次得要好好介紹了！雖是在百貨公司美食街吃的食物，但依舊美味、仍然道地！雖然還是比外面的貴了一些，不過對天龍國人來說，還是很便宜啊！看完這篇文章之前，要不要來猜猜看我們一共花了多少泰銖？

晚餐去Ban Rai Yarm Yen บ้านไร่ยามเย็น之前，我們抵達旅館後，發現肚子也差不多要空了。從曼谷搭飛機到清邁途中只給了小點心。等到飯店一切安頓好，就步行來到隔壁的購物中心。來趟美食街，先解決空腹問題再回去補眠。

這裡美食街的習慣，是要先用現金買票券。用剩的可以再換回來。所以大家現在可以開始猜猜，我們一共花了多少泰銖～ 

到了清邁的第一天晚上，就把行程安排給高中時的兩位好友。想一想還真的超級久沒見面了！我想這就是當第三文化小孩的後遺症吧！身邊比較少會有陪你一起長大的好朋友。因為大家畢業後都會跑到世界各地去發展。這兩位好友原本都在曼谷打拼，後來也因為種種因素搬回了清邁。

約好時間以後，接著就在飯店等著人家來接。所以不負責任之一，就是我沒辦法用很專業的方式告訴你這裡要怎麼來。不過如果告訴tuk tuk，（應該）到的了吧！？

I had arranged to meet up with two of my best friends from high school upon my first night in Chiang Mai. I guess it's one of the many things that third-culture kids have to deal with - that you rarely have friends from childhood by your side when you're all grown up! They scatter all over the world once you leave school. Fortunately, these two friends came back to Chiang Mai after having spent a considerable amount of time in Bangkok. 

為了省下機票錢，留著更多預算到了當地買東西、吃東西，查了最符合預算以及剛好配合到請假天數及這次前往清邁重要任務的日期，最後選擇周五晚間出發（周五只需請半天假），在曼谷機場過夜，週六一早才抵達清邁。因為到了曼谷已經半夜，隔天又是一大早的飛機，因此我們為了省下這一個晚上的住宿費，就決定犧牲掉這一個晚上的睡眠了。其實天仙也沒睡過機場，常常看人家睡機場，感覺也挺新鮮的。不過真正嘗試過之後，能不要睡機場的話，還是不要睡的好啊... 

To save our budget, we decided to get a cheap flight, and spend all our money on other stuff. We looked online, and found a flight that was most suitable - leaving on a Friday night (only cost us half a day off on the day), spend the night at the airport, then arrive in Chiang Mai ealry next morning. It was midnight when we arrived at Bangkok, and since the connecting flight was early in the morning, we decided to save that one night's hotel fee. I'd never slept at the airport before. Seeing other people having this experience, I thought it was something worth trying... well, once in a life time is enough, really....

從計畫好要來清邁之前，腦袋裡就已經盤算好要來吃盡道地美食了！所以其實住了這幾晚算下來飯店的早餐我們其實只吃了兩次。那絕對不是因為不好吃，只是行程太多，想吃得太多，胃卻只有小小的一個... （已哭）

Once we made plans to come to Chiang Mai, I already had in mind an entire itinerary for our food adventure. Therefore, we only had breakfast at the hotel twice. But it wasn't because it wasn't good enough. We wished we had more space in our tummies! There were simply way too much to eat! 

清邁雖不大，但也算是個旅遊觀光聖地。因此住宿選擇也很多。物價雖然不比十幾年前天仙還居住於此的時候，但要跟台灣（或甚至曼谷）比起來，還是可以輕鬆享受高級待遇的。不過隔了這麼多年沒回去，又是第一次沒有老爸可以安排交通，住宿的問題我倒是思考了好久：到底是要選擇豪華一點的（享受一下），還是交通便利為主的呢？位於Huaykaew路上的飯店選擇就很多了。Sri-Tokyo，Kadsuankaew，和這間Chiang Mai Orchid都是天仙居住在此時就已經打響名聲的幾座旅館（Kadsuankaew當時算是新的，但內部裝潢實在很詭異，因此就不考慮）。Chiang Mai Orchid 在天仙還在那時就已經算是老飯店了，現在都已經可以算是祖父級的了。

Chiang Mai is not a big city. But it is a very popular tourist city. Because of that, there are many choices from which you can choose your lodging - from economic guesthouses, all the way to five-star luxurious hotels. Although prices have gone up since I had been living here, it's still pretty low compared to the price ranges in Taiwan (or even Bangkok!). So you can still easily enjoy posh experiences while you're here. This was the first time I was in Chiang Mai without back up. Without my Dad around, I had to figure out transportation on my own. Therefore, I had to choose a lodging that wouldn't be that much of a burden on transportation. On Huay Kaew Road, there were already three places to pick from - Sri-Tokyo, Kadsuankaew, and Chiang Mai Orchid. Kadsuankaew was the newer of the three, but the interior design seemed a bit odd, so that was out of the question. Chiang Mai Orchid was probably the oldest of the three. But it was larger scale hotel than Sri-Tokyo, and was a thriving five-star hotel while I was living there.

去國外旅遊，抵達一個新的國度，自己選擇首次辦訪的城市實在是太重要了。泰國很多人去過。人家國家領土比我們大那麼多，可想而知，光是首都曼谷跟泰北清邁就差很多了，更別說東北或是其他海邊或島嶼例如普吉或蘇美島了。選擇拜訪城市之前是否要先考慮你想要透過這次旅程得到的是什麼？雖然事隔了這麼久才又回去，但相較之下，清邁還是跟曼谷差了很多。人比較親切不用說，天氣、交通也都比曼谷好。物價當然也比曼谷來的要好許多。在泰北你可以體驗曼谷真的怎麼找都無法體驗的事物。沒來過的一定要來一趟，別說你去過曼谷清邁就一定也差不多了。沒來過清邁，你的泰國行根本就不完整。

It is an important decision to choose which city to visit when you travel to a country for the first time. Many have been to Thailand, I'm sure. Their total land mass is so much bigger than Taiwan, it's not hard to imagine that things would be very different from, say, Bankok to Chiang Mai. Not to mention the Northeast or the beaches and the islands that all have their distinctive features. It's important to think about what you want to get from the trip. Although it's been a very long time since I was last here, Chiang Mai is still a very different place than Bangkok! The people are much nicer, so is the weather! Prices are lower, and the traffic is so much better also! In the north, you get to experience things that you can't find in Bangkok. So don't tell me you've been to Bangkok... You haven't seen the whole of Thailand if you haven't been to Chiang Mai.